A Fresh Spin on Tennis Bracelets & More Trending News

 

A tennis bracelet is a basic: small stones in easy, linear settings. But that minimalist look is now being reinterpreted with new supplies, design advances and different adjustments.

Customers need completely different takes on the model, in response to Elyse Walker, founder and chief govt of the California style boutiques that bear her identify. “Jewelry has gotten really exciting, so people think of it in a fashionable way,” she mentioned. “Not just in the long-term- investment way.” (Of course, the unique tennis bracelet — which fell off whereas Chris Evert, who was carrying it, was enjoying within the 1978 United States Open — was not precisely an funding, both.)

One result’s that tennis bracelets not pair diamonds completely with gold or platinum. Consider the ceramic, in a number of colours, used within the 14-karat yellow gold Folded Heart tennis bracelet (beginning at $3,998) by the Los Angeles-based designer Adina Reyter. Each heart-shaped factor is split, with a coloured ceramic on one half and a white-diamond pavé on the opposite.

“Sometimes, with stones, there are variations of them, and with ceramic, you are able to kind of get the same color and tone” each time, Ms. Reyter mentioned.

Even gold settings have been getting an replace. Eva Zuckerman, founder and inventive director of the New York-based model Eva Fehren, has been dipping the white gold of her tennis bracelets into black rhodium to present the items a more durable, extra uncooked look.

Blackened gold additionally highlights the stones, Ms. Zuckerman mentioned. “So when I use it with diamonds, it’s a really graphic contrast and has a lot of pop to it,” she mentioned.

Semiprecious stones and minerals, like labradorite and lapis lazuli, are additionally getting used, as they’re simply obtained and extra reasonably priced than valuable gems. And some jewellery homeowners are simply keen on them, like Natasha Omezi, a British guide on monetary crime and cybercrime.

Ms. Omezi mentioned she had been in search of an aqua topaz tennis bracelet so as to add to her Swarovski crystal ones as a result of, she mentioned, the colour “reminds me of the sea, so it might have a different,” extra calming impact.

An industrial look, achieved by integrating the form of on a regular basis {hardware} right into a tennis bracelet, is main the design adjustments. For occasion, Uniform Object, a New York-based on-line jeweler that opened in September, provides an 18-karat gold emerald or white diamond tennis bracelet that includes a diamond-accented spur-and-spring-lock clasp.

Created with 3-D software program, the bracelet design has thick, spherical bezels holding the stones, creating “a chunkier look” than that of conventional items, mentioned David Farrugia, the corporate’s founder and inventive director.

Linking the clasp to the bracelet proved troublesome, he wrote in an e mail, explaining that the spur and the spring lock needed to mix with the general design and “bend like the rest of the bracelet.” The emerald design, $12,950, is now being bought by the jewellery retailer Twist, which has on-line gross sales along with its shops in Portland, Ore., and Seattle.

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Designers have additionally been including extra layers of stones to their creations. The Los Angeles-based designer Suzanne Kalan plans to debut a double-row tennis bracelet on the Couture present in Las Vegas from June 9 by means of 12. One model may have a line of baguette shapes in 18-karat gold linked to a second line of diamond baguettes. The concept was “to make an expensive diamond piece to look casual and dressy at the same time,” Ms. Kalan mentioned, including that the gold “tones the diamonds down a little bit.”

A pink-sapphire and gold model may even be proven, she mentioned, and different mixtures are deliberate, akin to emerald and gold, and ruby and gold.

For the younger, London-based socialite Kofi Case, multistrand tennis bracelets simply have extra affect than the normal single-line design. He mentioned that when he’s a dinner visitor, he wears a three-tier diamond tennis bracelet by Lorraine Schwartz, purchased at Harrods.

“It’s so eye-catching, and I kind of like to keep it for special things,” he mentioned. “And not to overwear a piece, because then it loses the speciality for me.”

While Mr. Case additionally has six basic tennis bracelets from Cartier and different designers — these pair diamonds with white gold or platinum — he mentioned he favored to put on the Lorraine Schwartz bracelet with a black tuxedo by Tom Ford or a waist-cinching black-and-white Proenza Schouler swimsuit. The bracelet “is such a beautiful piece,” he mentioned. “It’s appropriate, and I feel glamorous and fun.”

Even the shapes of the bracelet’s stones are altering, with gems forming flowers of lowering measurement at Sophie Bille Brahe, colourful hearts at Emily P. Wheeler and elongated ovals at Nakard, Nak Armstrong’s diffusion line.

“We have tried to play with the proportions of things a little bit, and sometimes that can get complicated, because you have to get the cutters to find the material that can do these longer cuts,” mentioned Mr. Armstrong, who relies in Austin, Texas. “We just went back and forth until they got it right.”

Designers, nevertheless, are divided on whether or not reinventing such a basic piece is tougher than creating a brand new design.

“It’s very hard to reinvent something that is simple,” Mr. Armstrong mentioned. “I had to remove the bells and whistles, and just focus on the minutiae of how big is that setting, how thick is the bezel that goes around the stone, how close can I make it — thinking about what is the finish that is going to be on the metal.”

But, for Ms. Reyter, reinterpretation is much less of a problem. “Having a foundation in anything you do is easier,” she mentioned. “Imagine having to come up with a car for the first time. But once it’s designed, you can always make it better from there.”

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Technology has been driving lots of the adjustments within the tennis bracelet’s design, mentioned Paul Schneider, a co-founder of Twist. “It’s fairly complicated when it comes to how the different pieces are connected to each other, and how the stones are held in, and technology has really changed that,” he mentioned, citing more and more exact diamond-cutting machines and advances in computer-aided design programs.

Re-examining the tennis bracelet’s design has additionally led artisans to some inventive departures. Ms. Wheeler, who relies in Los Angeles, mentioned she had been making solely onerous cuffs and bangles, however as soon as she started doing tennis bracelets, she was inspired to attempt different mushy bracelets. “I hadn’t quite appreciated that today’s modern jewelry collector stacks a lot of bracelets, maybe with a watch” on the opposite wrist, she mentioned, including that “I hadn’t quite appreciated how a thinner, softer bracelet beautifully breaks up that aesthetic.”

And Matthew Harris, founding father of Mateo New York, has mixed a prong setting with a monitor, or channel, setting (the gems are set in a row with metallic strips on both aspect), to show the tennis bracelet’s basic design into his personal. The approach requires an excessive amount of precision, he mentioned.

Yet at the same time as jewellery designers reinvent the tennis bracelet, they are saying the fundamental type nonetheless has resonance.

Mr. Farrugia of Uniform Object in contrast it to a big cuff, like Elsa Peretti’s bone cuff for Tiffany & Company. He described tennis bracelets as “classic, powerful statement pieces that are aspirational, that a lot of jewelry houses have their own take on.”

For Mr. Harris, carrying the design is nearly like donning a cross, he mentioned. While “the tennis bracelet has no religious affiliation,” he defined, “it’s almost a sacred thing to have a tennis bracelet in my family.”

But maybe one of the best comparability is to massive hoop earrings, Mr. Armstrong mentioned. Like these items, a tennis bracelet, he added, is “a simple idea that has become an item that, you know, every woman should have in their wardrobe.”

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